Showing posts with label southern cooking. Show all posts
Showing posts with label southern cooking. Show all posts

Sunday, August 12, 2012

Jan Karon's Mitford Cookbook and Kitchen Reader: Recipes from Mitford Cooks, Favorite Tales from Mitford Books Review

Jan Karon's Mitford Cookbook and Kitchen Reader: Recipes from Mitford Cooks, Favorite Tales from Mitford Books
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"Mitford" devotees, rejoice! If you've long salivated over author Jan Karon's many descriptions of food in her Mitford novels, you'll be delighted to find Viking has at long last assembled the recipes into one delectable volume, JAN KARON'S MITFORD COOKBOOK & KITCHEN READER.
Despite a nod to Father Tim's diabetes, this is pure, unadulterated, break-out-the-butter, down-home southern cooking. Don't look for calorie counts or number of servings. Most likely, with this carb-fest of comforting, sweet-tooth ticklin' recipes, you don't want to know the nutritional information! Just think of it as pure enjoyment.
Each recipe is presented in the order of its appearance in the Mitford series, and six recipes are included from the forthcoming and concluding novel, LIGHT FROM HEAVEN (2005). The recipes range from the simple Silver Queen Corn (butter, sugar, corn, salt and pepper) to the dust-off-your-apron-and-clear-your-schedule-for-the-day complex Esther's Orange Marmalade Cake (although this is photographed as a two-layer cake, the recipe calls for a more complicated three-layer).
Recipes run the culinary gamut: main course meals (Rector's Meatloaf, Ray's Barbecue Ribs, Cynthia's Bouillabaisse); basic side dishes (Puny's Potato Salad); mouth-watering desserts (Louella's Buttermilk Chess Pie, Cynthia's Raspberry Tart, Mama's Ice Cream in a Tray); beverages (Marge's Sweet Tea with Peppermint), and breads (Magdolen's Spoon Bread, Louella's Cinnamon Rolls). Playful recipes like Dooley's Fried Baloney Sandwich Supreme are paired with Dooley's Second Favorite Sandwich --- The Doozie, consisting of white bread, smooth peanut butter and Cheerios ("Fold the sandwich in half and jump on your bike and go"). Look for the unexpected, such as Barnabas's Dog Biscuits or The Lord's Chapel Communion Bread, and the unusual --- a page devoted to Russell Jack's livermush --- what it is, where to get it, and how to cook it.
Declining to try the livermush, I experimented with three recipes: Velma's Chili, Cynthia's Heavenly Tea, and Emma's Fudge. Velma's Chili is a thick, meaty concoction with the surprise addition of cloves and celery, and won rave reviews when I made it for a casual dinner party this fall. Like many cooks might do, I tinkered with the recipe a bit, adding more tomato sauce than called for. Cynthia's Heavenly Tea is a memorable, rich drink with an unusual blend of tea, apricot nectar, mint, frozen lemonade, and a squirt of almond extract. Emma's Fudge didn't set up firmly for me, but was scrumptious anyway --- cooled, spooned up and eaten, rather than cut into squares.
Though the recipes whet the appetite, they are only a smidgeon of what makes this cookbook so appealing. Sprinkled throughout the beautifully designed pages are table blessings, poetry, and little vignettes about Karon's own culinary life and history. Recipes are interspersed with full-color, mouthwatering artwork and photographs of the featured foods, often pictured on Karon's own tableware. "Puny's Saving Grace" tips offer snippets of cooking wisdom on everything from keeping lettuce fresh to freezing ripe bananas. The recipes appear alongside their specific excerpts from the Mitford novels, inviting contemplation of favorite passages while Uncle Billy's Sweet Potato Pie bakes in the oven.
Just why is there so much yummy food in the "Mitford" books? Karon answers that question in her page-long essay, "Writing Hungry," one of many such nostalgic reflections from the author that makes the book so wonderfully palatable. Karon remembers life as a freelance writer when bills piled up, her cupboards were bare, and she dreamed of good food --- food that found its way into the pages of the Mitford novels. Karon tells how she learned to make do, even creating soup broth from chicken bones (recipe included). A lovely two-page essay recounts one of Karon's "starving writer" Christmases and how she canned apples, picked free from a tree in her yard, for Christmas gifts (complete with an original poem and a recipe). But of that time: "What I learned mostly, however, is that God is faithful," Karon writes.
It's the personal warmth of Karon that gives this cookbook and kitchen reader its charisma. On one page, Karon confesses, "Cover your eyes! Plug your ears! It's confession time. I love anything fried!" Another page, detailing her grandmother's biscuit recipe, notes, "If you have a grandmother, go call her right now and tell her you love her to pieces. Actually, if you have a mother, call her, too." Gratitude to her readers permeates the pages: "...together our imaginations have made Mitford real, very real --- and I couldn't have done it without you."
Mitford fans --- your collection won't be complete without this book!
(...)

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Millions of Mitford fans around the world will agree—it's easy to put on a pound or two reading a Mitford novel. Scene after scene of the bestselling series' colorful characters enjoying tantalizing dishes can immediately start a craving. Then, before you know it, you've read several pages by the glow of the refrigerator lightbulb. Packed with more than 150 recipes from the Mitford novels and from the author's own recipe box, Jan Karon's Mitford Cook-book & Kitchen Reader is loaded with tips, hints, jokes, culinary quotes, and delightful side-dish sidebars guaranteed to start a stomach rumbling. From Miss Sadie's Apple Pie to Puny's Cornbread, from Emma's Pork Roast to Marge's Sweet Tea with Peppermint, beloved characters come alive through their own favorite recipes. Here, too, are Karon's reminiscences of her own family's food traditions and—as dessert—four stories never before published in her books. Jan Karon's Mitford Cookbook & Kitchen Reader is a charming companion to the Mitford series that will have readers clamoring to bring into their own kitchens the aromas and flavors that swirl within the little town with the big heart.

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Monday, March 5, 2012

The Heritage of Southern Cooking Review

The Heritage of Southern Cooking
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I have a copy of the original `The Heritage of Southern Cooking' by Camille Glenn, published by Workman Publishers, and it is a fabulous guide. We've yet to find a recipe that disappoints us. The problem with this edition is that it's `adapted' from the original. In this case, `adapted' means that they omitted a significant percentage of the recipes (I'm going to guess about half). There is nothing that indicates the significant difference between the two editions. My son had learned to appreciate the original and I was trying to provide him a copy. I was sorely disappointed at the deception.

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Camille Glen shares the rich heritage of fine Southern cuisine in this lavish collection of 550 delectable recipes. Nostalgically illustrated with over 200 photographs portraying a memorable South, recipes include Washington Waterfront Pickled Shrimp and Very Special Cheese Straws, Sea Island Chowder, Kentucky Burgoo, Piquant Ham with Juniper Berries, Spitted Duck with Kumquats, Fresh Green Pea Pie, Carolina Grits Souffle, and Maryland Crab Cakes. There are scores of breads, including Sour Cream Cornmeal Batter Cakes and the Ultimate Extra-Flaky Biscuit, and 40 recipes for the condiments so dear to the South. Plus, here are no fewer than 90 desserts, including CamilleIs Golden Cointreau Cake, which holds a secret all to itself. Selection of the Book-of-the-Month Club, Book-of-the-Month Cooking & Crafts Club, and main selection of the Quality Paperback Book Club and Better Homes & Gardens Family Book Service. 172,000 copies in print.

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Thursday, November 10, 2011

The Ultimate Southern Living Cookbook Review

The Ultimate Southern Living Cookbook
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I have several Southern Living cookbooks including several years of the annual editions and the 20th anniversary edition. This is by far my favorite. The recipes are grouped by category rather than month as in the annual editions which I hate, it makes it hard to browse for a dinner recipe. One of the best things about this book is it has recipes for everyone from the beginner to the advanced chef. I can't name the number of times I have used the reference sections also. The substitution list is the best and I love the introductions and tips listed all over the book. Where the annual editions are really geared towards an experienced chef this book has so many basic tips that I would strongly recommend it for a beginning chef as well.

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A newly created volume of the Southern Living Cookbook series that's even better than the first! It includes the best basic recipes from the "Southern Living" files, each one re-tested to focus on time, convenince and good health for on-the-go familes.The book is full of up-to-date, easy-to-use kitchen classics.It also includes an extensive text update, all new photography, nutritional analysis, as well as preparation and cook times for every recipe.Check out the special sectons on pairing wine and food, a discussion of equipment and ingredients, grilling know-how and entertaining tips.

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Sunday, September 25, 2011

Biscuit Bliss: 101 Foolproof Recipes for Fresh and Fluffy Biscuits in Just Minutes Review

Biscuit Bliss: 101 Foolproof Recipes for Fresh and Fluffy Biscuits in Just Minutes
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James Villas is an old school culinary writer. He was a friend and confidant of both James Beard and Craig Claiborne. He was born and raised in North Carolina and many of his books have featured Southern cooking subjects and styles. This book is no exception.
The book is an almost perfect follow-up to his last effort, `Crazy About Casseroles' in that both books deal with a single subject which is at the core of both Southern and American cooking styles. I am especially fond of single subject cookbooks, whether the subject is a style of dish like gratins and casseroles or an ingredient like potatoes or eggs. Therefore, the score of this book starts with a score in my mind of four (4) stars instead of three (3) before I even read the first page.
The book's subject can be divided into two major topics. The first topic is basic biscuit techniques, covering all the variations in flour, leavening, fat, oven temperature, and dough versus batter. The second topic deals with how to apply all those various techniques to sweet and savory additions.
Techniques are covered in Chapters on `Biscuit Basics', `Plain Raised Biscuits', and `Drop Biscuits'. The greatest virtue of basic biscuit technique is its simplicity. This does not mean a person can make good biscuits, much less make good biscuits on the first try, after reading a single recipe that gives no insight into biscuit subtleties. The first batch of biscuits I made a few years ago was from Jim Villas' mother's recipes he published in his memoir `Between Bites'. I confess that the process had me puzzled, sticky, and a bit disappointed, even though I am sure I followed the instructions to a tee.
Part of the puzzle may be due to the fact that making biscuits is a lot more like making pastry than it is like making bread. While bread is vigorously kneaded to develop gluten and the starting mix of ingredients is often warm to accommodate the yeast or other organic starter, biscuits are worked with cold ingredients and low protein (soft) flour. The dough is worked hardly at all and is cut into disks while the fat is still in oatmeal flaked globs. Sounds like pastry to me.
As I have had a fair amount of experience with various recipes from both Southern bakers and baking experts, I can say with confidence that Mr. Villas knows his stuff when it comes to biscuits. I thoroughly endorse his recommendation to use a brand of Southern soft flour such as White Lily. I only have two disappointments with the discussion of techniques. First, Villas describes a classic Southern method of biscuit making wherein the cook empties an entire 5 pound bag of flour into a bowl, adds wet ingredients, salt, and leavenings, and creates a ball of dough in a depression in the dough. Yet, Villas does not give us the recipe for this technique. He doesn't even explain why he doesn't give a recipe. I know there are still serious Southern cooks who use this technique, as I saw one demonstrate the technique on Martha Stewart's show about a year ago. The second disappointment is that he has no basic recipe where the only fat is butter. I have used such a recipe by Nick Malgieri with White Lily flour and buttermilk, and I find it as good or better than Villas' mother's recipe. Otherwise, I think the coverage of biscuit techniques is tiptop. Were I writing the same thing, I may have included a table comparing the recipes. This may facilitate one's personal experiments in the technique. I would also argue that basic biscuit technique is a better starting point for adolescent bakers than the drop biscuit technique. I don't think drop biscuit technique is easier and the basic technique is more versatile.
The second main subject of the book is what you can do with biscuits and biscuit dough. This can be divided roughly into four areas: sweet additions, savory additions, scones, and biscuits as pastry. Appropriate to the title of this review, the range of variations possible in biscuits gives me the idea that a home entertainer can give all their books on French and Spanish and Italian and Greek `little bites' recipes a rest and spend several months experimenting with hors d'ourves / antipasti / tapas / Mezes based on biscuits. As soon as I write this, I confess that even the lightest biscuits may be a bit heavy to stand alone among the martinis and margaritas, but I do suggest that you give the pizza and foccacia a rest and give these recipes a try. As biscuits, like chowder, are very close to being a true American invention, they are perfect as part of American cooking menus.
While I am often surprised at how new many kitchen techniques such as baking powder are, I am also often surprised at how old some methods are. Many techniques such as cooking in a bag and using packaged dough as stew topping are touted as new ideas based on marketed products, when actually the techniques are centuries old. Such is the case with using biscuits as a topping for pot pies and casseroles. Villas raises the veil from our eyes in revealing the historical sources for these old biscuit techniques.
I liked this book a lot and I recommend it to anyone who wishes to master biscuits and who may find a gold mine of quick, relatively easy recipes with a big `wow' factor.
Highly recommended. Intermediate skill level.

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James Villas has been obsessed with biscuits his entire life. Now that he's grown up, he has sampled and baked countless batches himself, which makes him eminently qualified to present the very best recipes in Biscuit Bliss. Yum!

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